Karine Laudort Fashion week is back and this time round, designers had emerged on the catwalk to showcase their Spring Summer collections for 2023. From Raisa Vanessa’s dimensional and sexy display of bold 70’s silhouettes to Erigo’s striking and dusky streetwear ensembles, this fashion week has got everyone thinking about what’s to come in the future of fashion.
Raisa Vanessa
Created by twin sisters Raisa and Vanessa Sason in 2011, Raisa Vanessa is made by women, for the modern and empowered woman. Brought to life in Istanbul, the brand showcases the sisters’ sartorial taste through mixing and matching fabrics and styles to create a fusion of maximalist, dimensional, sophisticated yet sexy designs, met with artisanal tailoring to enhance women’s self-confidence and power.
(09/09) The stylistic duo hit the runway with an epic showcase of their 70’s inspired designs fused with sexy, modern silhouettes; From retro swirl pattern flare trousers paired with a matching button-up shirt to crocheted cut-out metallic choker dresses paired with futuristic visor sunglasses, the twins delivered more of their classic “Ibiza boho” style with an eclectic twist and I loved it!
With their designs being ‘an ode to the futuristic perceptions of iconic women’, their show radiated self-confidence, sensuality and power with a modern twist and this has me anticipating what the sister duo has in store for us next.
Erigo
Fine Indonesia craftsmanship met streetwear at Erigo-X’s Spring/Summer 2023 runway show, True Through You, at Spring Studios as a part of NYFW: The Shows.
The True Through You collection is dedicated to those who strive to find their true identity and authenticity as an individual. Staying true to yourself means living unapologetically It means embracing all qualities, both the positives and flaws. It means accepting who we are, understanding what we bring to the table, and striving for what we believe in. Erigo-X wants to inspire you to keep pushing forward, to stay true to your voice, to stay true to your dreams, and to find #TrueTroughYou.
(12/09) Erigo hit the runway with a striking streetwear collection with leather, mesh and tulle taking the spotlight. One look that stood out was their mesh shirt embroidered with pearls and a brown leather pocket paired with black cargos and kitten heels; I’ve seen a lot of the mesh and pearls looks recently and I am stoked to see mesh take centre stage in Erigo’s showcase.
Another theme I spotted throughout this show was the use of chains. Whether it be colourful, embezzled chains hanging from the trouser to chains wrapped around the torso to chains embroidered into their design itself, Erigo came through with their SS23 collection and said the time is ours. Representing power and uniqueness, this show was a reminder that originality will always prevail.
Vogue World
In celebration of its 130th anniversary, Vogue World took to the catwalk for a spectacular showcase presenting our favourite runway pieces from autumn/ winter 2022 collections from a range of different designers; Balenciaga, Gucci, Dior, Hermes, Ralph Lauren, Tory Burch, to name a few.
(12/09) Icon Serena Williams opened the show, sporting a metallic silver Balenciaga cape paired with a matching gown which was followed by an immersive fashion experience. With models walking the runway, some riding a bike and dancing down the runway, the Vogue World showcase was one not to miss.
With supermodels Irina Shayk, Lila Moss, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid also present, you can say that the Vogue World runway show is a celebration of all counterparts of what makes Vogue what it is today. Even the newlywed couple Brooklyn and Nicole Ann Peltz-Beckham hit the runway, sporting Valentino; Nicole wore a scoop neck beige top paired with tan leather trousers and Brooklyn was dressed in a varsity jacket, white t-shirt and jeans. Despite the more unconventional, “out-there” pieces throughout the show, the pair definitely toned it down with an everyday look.
A celebration of Vogue’s legacy and the many designers that have instilled the brand’s growth could have not been any better. With many celebrities in attendance; The likes of Kanye West, Lala, and Latto sat in the front row; Not to forget Lil Nas X was present, who also performed at the show.
Bevsa
The Bevza SS ‘23 collection is dedicated to their Motherland, Ukraine. In the face of Russia’s continued war, Bevza presents a hopeful collection celebrating the country they call home. The collection is a visual voice from Ukraine today, steeped in war, but continuing the fight for their ancient homeland, and optimistic for the future. Inspiration was drawn from the image of a woman in a field harvesting wheat, reaping the bountiful harvest of her homeland.
(13/09) As they’ve done in past seasons, Bevza’s SS ‘23 collection references Ukrainian cultural heritage throughout the collection. Incorporating significant Ukrainian cultural symbols, such as the spikelet, representative of wheat, one of the country’s major exports, a resource which has been greatly impacted by the war. Bevza’s collection gives us an insight into Ukraine’s struggles with war and their optimism for the future, in her simplistic but flattering signature style. Embodying the soul-wrenching feeling of the country’s people with the light of hope, throughout the collection there were many pieces inspired by typical Ukrainian clothing with an elegant twist.
Inspired by the image of a woman in a field harvesting wheat, reaping the bountiful harvest of her homeland, the skirts and dresses throughout the collection reference traditional cuts of the “plakhta” skirt worn by women when harvesting wheat. The shapes of sleeves on jackets are inspired by traditional “sorochka” blouses. The traditional crochet elements featuring the sacred star symbol can be seen in t-shirts and dresses, and the “Hustka” shawl worn by Ukrainian women is incorporated into elegant evening gowns.
Whilst the collection reflects the solemn and downhearted effects of conflict, Bevsa reminds us that there is hope. An inspiring and thought-provoking show that served loads of clean lines, flattering cuts, drapes and tassels.
Tommy Hilfiger
After three years away, Tommy Hilfiger came back from his hiatus with a harmonious show jam-packed full of timeless ready-to-wear pieces. Whilst many of the compositions embodied Hilfiger’s signature style, there was a bountiful, futuristic twist that he came with this collection and we were here for it- What more could we expect from the powerhouse’s comeback?
(13/09) With this season’s collection utilising the go-to winter colours as well as Hilfigers signature hues, the collection was a fuse of old-school varsity style meets ‘new-age fashion freak.’ From white hooded puffer jackets paired with a mahogany patterned jumpsuit to a royal blue coat paired with electric blue trousers, black loafers and a blue and black scarf, this collection gave us everything we needed and MORE!
Winnie Harlow graced the catwalk with a stunning but relaxed fit; A dark green cropped varsity knit jumper, paired with light-brown jogging bottoms with a triple waistband effect; giving the impression that she is wearing 1 or 2 pairs underneath. This collection gave us an insight into what Hilfiger sees as the “future of fashion” and whilst his signature cool style with a preppy twist was still present, there was an unruly individualism present throughout the show that got me eager to see what is next.
Cos
Cos’s SS23 show served up all of the contemporary suaveness this season. London-based designer and Cos’ creative director Karin Gustafsson gave us all the grungey vibes we deserved and MORE. The whole collection is giving “winter in the city” vibes and I am here for it.
(13/09)From large gradient cashmere scarfs matched with a beige trench coat and matching pantsuit to boucle coats paired with balaclavas, below-knee boots and a black leather bag, throughout the show there were oversized silhouettes, knitwear and maximal minimalism with a touch of winter sass.
Steering away from their signature ‘tailored’ silhouettes and moving toward more loose, baggy ensembles, Cos braved the catwalk with plunging v-neckline tunics, loose buttoned-up shirts, pleated slip dresses and sequin ensembles; Despite most of the show emitting a dark, grungey vibe, there were also bright greens and purples that vitalised the collection immensely.
The London-based brand gave us all we needed- Serving up “UK Weather realness”, despite it being a Spring/Summer collection, you can easily mistake it for Autumn/Winter. With this collection, Cos says ‘bye-bye to dressing in seasons because whats the point? The UK has one season all year round.
Fendi
One powerhouse that always has something exhilarating up its sleeve is Fendi. With this collection, the brand celebrated the 25th anniversary of its renowned “baguette” bag by teaming up with Tiffany & Co, Sarah Jessica Parker, Marc Jacobs and Porter, to co-design the elements of the wardrobe staple.
(21/09) Kim Jones decided he didn’t want to do a traditional collection for the anniversary and instead wanted to celebrate the times for which the bag is famous. Throughout the show, we saw eccentric colours and more muted hues; Lime green and teal, Baby pinks, browns and greys. Supermodel Precious Lee stunned in a gorgeous lime green maxi dress with a leg slit, that was paired with a matching hat and baguette bag. There were also muted brown outfits accentuated with bold green statement pieces that made the fits pop, throughout the show.
Jones also played around with layering this season; Perhaps he’s anticipating a colder spring/summer than we expected. Lila Moss took to the catwalk wearing a gorgeous baby pink mesh blouse with under bustier, paired with a grey cargo-style skirt with classic “F” metal embellishments and a silver metallic underskirt and matching bag.
Celebrating 25 years of the baguette bag, Kim Jones wanted to spotlight the fashion that prevailed over the years. From zipper-backed tops to full teal jumpsuits, Fendi’s SS23 show was all about honouring the past, present and future of fashion.
Now that NYFW is over, it has got me questioning what is to come for next season’s collections. With our favourite designers gracing our catwalks with their fabulous SS23 displays; From come-backs to 130-year Anniversaries, SS23 was one not to miss.
Click here to read our previous SS22 PFW Roundup.
